At midsummer, we pass the midway point of the year, the middle of summer, and the Land changes before our eyes.

Leaves

There are drought-deciduous plants and seasonally-deciduous plants. Their sometimes-colorful leaf drop is starting to overlap. Poison oak is one of those deciduous plants that are in between: on drier slopes, crimson patches have been emerging for a month as that plant decides to drop its leaves, leaving only stems and berries. Buckeye trees are dropping medium-brown leaves, too: very little Fall color to add to the landscape’s palette. Madrone Fall has happened already, leaves littering the ground most crunchily, bark peeling on the hot days making pinking and crinkling noises. Madrone trees lose their old leaves but keep their new ones. Bare madrone trees are dead, as is too often the case with some scourge that is ravaging many trees. 

I was just in the Eastern Sierra and the very first seasonal fall color was showing at 8,000 feet – branch tips of the brightest lemony yellow aspens were a treat, but very rare. Time to plan your leaf-peeping trip in a month or so. Our versions of seasonally deciduous lemony yellows will emerge in a while yet with hazelnut and big leaf maple, which mostly aren’t starting to lose their chlorophyll just yet.

Fruit

The grassland seeds have (mostly) fallen and the shrubland berries ripen while the woodland acorns grow fat. In abandoned agricultural fields, dead grass slowly sags horizontal, skeletons of radish, mustard, and hemlock rattle free their last seeds in the afternoon breezes. Perennial grasses in the more pristine prairies have dried, too, and just blue wild rye still holds a few seeds on its narrow, dense flower spikes. The bases of the bunchgrasses show a little green- real toughies! You would be lucky to find a single seed in the spent rattly seed cups of soap root and other lilies.

Side hilling strolls along the prairie-shrubland boundary reveals dark leaved coffeeberry shrubs thick with ripe purple-black juicy berries. Nearby, the mixture of ripening stages of blackberry offers a few small, seedy ripe fruit. Fruit eating birds (including band-tailed pigeons) and foxes have bellies full of these, as evidenced by their scat.

It will be a while before the acorns and buckeye nuts are ripe: they grow day-by-day. Acorn woodpeckers settle for bugs or last year’s cache of acorns for sustenance. 

Migration

As the season progresses, wildlife moves. The last of the barn swallows have just fledged (this last week!) and are fast growing muscle to make their long journey south. Cooper hawk and kestrel will be free of the swallows’ vigilant fuss by the middle of September. 

This year’s batch of adolescent dragonflies is patrolling the air from zero to 50’ above the dry grasslands and chaparral ecosystems, far from their natal homes. They dart about capturing the insects that have matured and taken flight after devouring leaf, shoot, and seed from the prolific biomass below. Below our feet, in the deep and complex matrix of gopher and ground squirrel burrows, newts pace back and forth stalking invertebrate prey. 

On foggy days, chorus frogs that have been emerging from drying ponds climb further out on tree limbs or hop further from their wetland birthplaces to find places with richer food and fewer competitors. These talkative amphibians make their squeaky hinge croaks across the extensive canopies of Fort Ord’s live oak woodlands in the long days of misty-fog “summer.”

Big things are on the move in the ocean as well. My favorite summer whale is the giant blue whale, which is typically seen in the Monterey Bay from July – October. August sitings have been scant, but still, they are out there! Meanwhile, our population of gray whales are at the height of their arctic adventures, way, way north – feasting on krill and wondering if this year is a good one to sneak over to the Atlantic Ocean. This year is the third lowest ice sheet coverage in the last nearly 50 years… gray whales were hunted out of the Atlantic and may soon act on their yearning for those ancestral feeding grounds. 

Fire Season

Monsoon season brought hundreds of lightning strikes to California last weekend ushering in the fire season across large areas of the state. We just passed the anniversary of the 2020 CZU Lightning Complex Fire and, before that, the 2009 Lockheed Fire. Mid-August has been the time for the Monterey Bay to burn recently, but September and October are historically fire months as well. Our cool July and ongoing cool nights have combined to help keep things less dry, but coastal heat waves are quickly removing any residual moisture. As interior California heats up and typical conditions prevail, the moderating effect of the ocean keeps us cooler and sometimes moister so the fire danger is less. That hasn’t stopped fires from happening, though, including a roadside fire in Davenport not long ago. There are no terrific heat waves foreseeable for the coast and no predictions of remnant tropical storms carrying thunder and lightning, so thanks for those things (for now). A reminder, though- it is Not Too Late to clear fuels and otherwise prepare. Recall from Santa Rosa that fire can carry way into town, so work to do even there. Wondering where to focus? Zone Zero- the 5 feet out from structures…nothing flammable there!

Midsummer’s challenge: crunch some madrone leaves under your feet. The crispy noise, the beautiful patterns of fallen madrone leaves, the peely bark…some deep delicious experiences are in store for you if you can get there.